The Real Technology Of The Red Gang Tailor JINDA.

On the two West Road in Xihu District, Hangzhou, there is a private custom shop which is mainly made by hand, and the owner is JINDA Ying. It is the fourth generation successor of the Hong Bang tailor.

At the age of 36, dressed in his own suit, he is proud to say that no one in Hangzhou has ever done anything better than a Western-style suit.

This confidence comes from inheriting the exquisite skills of his father and his twenty years of sewing experience, as well as the red gang.

Unremitting pursuit.

Although Jin Dengying did a good job of sewing today, the tailor was not what he wanted to do more than 20 years ago.

In those days, craftsmen did not have a high status. Their parents wanted their son to study well and be an intellectual.

For Jin Da Ying, being a chef was his first ambition. After a while, he ran outside, but it was not long before he was recalled by his unreliable parents.

Perhaps it is to see that his son is not an intellectual genius, and his father Jin Xingjun intends to keep his son around.

"Parents often say that wealth is better than skill.

It's a little harder to be a tailor, but it's more than enough to support your family. "

In the early days of learning, Jin Da Ying's daily work was to dismantle the sleeves. This is a hard work. It is necessary to cut and remove the cuffs of hundreds of needles, so that clothes can not be damaged a bit.

"The most difficult thing for a Western-style clothes is to put on the sleeves.

I can't remember how many pairs of sleeves I have dismantled, but I remember that it's common to sleep 2 hours a day.

At first, I was somewhat reluctant to learn tailoring, but the more I learned later, the better.

Actually, I watched my parents grow up with sewing needles, scissors and sewing machines.

Later, he made this trip, because of the boy's competitive spirit, he felt that he had done well and had done some hard work and gradually liked this skill.

Until now, Jin Dun Ying could not say whether he took over the job of tailoring the family or inherited his hobby.

Since the birth of the Hong Band tailor in nineteenth Century, the Hong Bang tailor has evolved into a unique style of clothing and formed a distinctive red gang spirit.

The clothes made by the red gang tailor were once designated as national costumes, and were also used as gifts from the state.

Whether it is national dignitaries or celebrities from all walks of life, it is regarded as a symbol of identity.

Even after more than 100 years, it is still the first choice for politicians and business leaders.

This is due to the exquisite workmanship of the red gang tailor.

"Some of our friends have seen our clothes and rated it as" boneless and upright ". The clothes without shelves are very straight like a shelf.

Good use of the needle is another success of Hong Bang tailoring.

When sewing, place the needle into the middle section of the middle finger. When using the wrist and fingers, the shoulders will not move. Only after a long period of exercise, can the line be pulled straight and even.

"Although the garments that are sewn, they will not shrink after washing."

In the long term development, the red gang tailor has injected some unique cultural connotations into the clothing. There are several unique pockets in the clothing, including the shape of the bag, the number of buttons, and the design of the neckline.

Even today, Hong Bang's predecessors' wonderful interpretation of clothing culture still amazed the people.

According to Jin Daying,

Exquisite, tailor-made, one person, one edition, from the beginning of the tailoring are purely manual, the test is the master's hands.

"No one's figure is exactly the same. The suit made by the first-rate craftsman can correct the figure of the human body. This kind of fit is impossible for the clothes produced by the machine."

In the red gang's "four skills" praised by the world, knife skills, hand work, vehicle work and hot work, there are 14 kinds of techniques, namely, pulling, string, throwing, locking, staking, prizing, pulling, beating, packing, arching, hooking, pulling, touching and mixing.

Thanks to this, the achievement is far more than that of line clothing.

Jin Daying said that it takes about ten years to train an excellent tailor, and it should be done every day.

"It's best to start learning when you are young. When you are older, you will get more and more chores, which will disturb your study.

Of course, if he is willing to work hard, he will be fine in his twenties. "

"A lot of people say that the red gang tailor is" not spreading inside, "which is actually a misunderstanding.

In the past, we all took the form of a master with an apprentice, but during his studies, he could not earn money. In addition, the old master thought of "church apprentice and starving to death" might have some reservations in teaching skills.

Over time, people are more willing to send their children to their relatives there. "

With the change of the times, the craftsmen are fewer than one generation. "Now the red gang tailors are also more than 100, like me, not more than 10 people.

In the next ten to twenty years, my father would not be able to do that, and we will soon be faced with a dilemma.

This makes JINDA more and more aware of the importance of inheritance, but it is not so easy to find a qualified inheritor.

"Although the status of craftsmen has improved, it is still better than the culture of not going to school.

Less money, more lives, no respect, this is an important reason why inheritance is difficult. "

JINDA Ying said, perhaps he is not the best red tailor, but he must be the most passionate and ideal. He is also willing to work hard as a lifelong mission.

But the cultural heritage is not achieved overnight, and needs countless generations and countless efforts.

"I have always wanted to be a heritage base for Hong Band culture, which can give people a visit and produce some economic effects externally, and at the same time, prepare for the next generation.

But my personal strength is limited, and I need more help from people with status, status and money to help boost the pmission of Chinese traditional culture.