Gucci Parent Company Became The First Luxury Group To Commit Itself To The Model Over 18 Years Old.

With the gradual appearance of the appearance of models, the standardization of this industry is attracting more and more attention.

According to the fashion business bulletin, Kai Yun group issued a statement on Wednesday, promising that its brands will only recruit models over the age of 18 from 2020 to participate in its fashion show or fashion blockbuster.

Chief executive Fran C ois-Henri Pinault said, "as a global high-end luxury group, we are deeply aware of the impact of brand image, especially on the younger generation.

We are responsible for shaping the best practice model of the luxury industry and launching a whole industry campaign to encourage more industry peers to join.

Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustainability officer and director of international affairs at Kai Yun, responded that the physiological and psychological maturity of models over the age of 18 seems to be more suitable for the rhythm and requirements of this profession.

This is the latest move taken by LVMH in 2017 to jointly promote labor protection in the luxury industry after drafting the "labor relations and model health protection charter".

The labor relations and model health protection regulations set the minimum age of the model to be 16 years old, which mainly includes 6 commitments. It is necessary to employ models with valid health certificates. The validity period of the certificates is traced to less than six months, thus proving their health. In the election, they cancel the female size 32 and the men's Size 34 respectively, stipulate the minimum age of the adult model is 16 years old, formulate the specific rules for the working conditions of the 16 to 18 year old models; if there is a dispute with the model broker company, the director or the brand name, they can directly complain, and introduce many measures to improve the working conditions.

These include models that can enter the "reserved space", allowing them to comfortably change clothes or get food and drinks that are suitable for their dietary needs.

In fact, in the fashion world where everything is extremely beautiful, the severity and cruelty of the models have long been known. Discrimination against obesity has always been the focus of attention. Models seem never to be thin enough to wear out 0 yards of clothing.

"The sooner the model starts, the better" is the default consensus of the industry. Many supermodels start to enter the age of minors.

The 48 year old Naomi Campbell started her career as a model at the age of 16. Kate Moss, 45, was discovered by model broker at the age of 14, and Brooke Shields was only 14 years old when she boarded the cover of VOGUE in February 1980. At present, Kaia Gerber, 17 years old, has long been a permanent model of luxury brands such as CHANEL, Saint, and so on.

In October 2017, after the death of a 14 year old Russian model Vlada Dzyuba after the show in Shanghai fashion week, the problem of juvenile models again aroused people's concern.

As the industry with the most models besides brands, fashion magazine "VOGUE" was the first to make a sound. As early as 2012, it issued a statement that thin models would no longer appear on its pages. 19 editors of the world jointly agreed to launch the image of a healthy model, and said they would ask the scout to check the identity document of the model in the film, fashion shows and advertising activities.

In 2015, France, which had always been thin and beautiful, passed the bill to make it fashionable for fashion organizations to hire thin models. The employing party may face 6 months' imprisonment and 30% of the cost of 75000 euros or the cost of advertising. It is a violation of the law for all online propaganda anorexia.

Despite this, the modelling industry is still in turmoil. It is only two years ago that the group and LVMH started to focus on this area and make rules and regulations.

There are industry figures that this may be associated with the two giants involved in the model event in 2017.

On the eve of the autumn and winter fashion week in Paris in February 2017, the US corner director James Scully was exposed on the Instagram. The model complained about the inhuman treatment of the Balenciaga 2017 autumn winter fashion show in Kai Yun group. It said that Maida Gegori Boina and Rami Fernandes closed about 150 models in the narrow staircase for nearly three hours on the same day, and switched off the entire building lights at lunch time. The mobile phone became the only illumination tool for the models, and the mental state of many models was affected afterwards.

After the incident, Balenciaga immediately admitted the mistake, issued a statement announcing the termination of the contract with Maida Gegori Boina and Rami Fernandes's corner selection company, and apologized to the model who had encountered unfair treatment. She stressed that Balenciaga and its parent company Kai Yun group had always attached great importance to and respected the model profession and would never tolerate such a thing happening again.

LVMH's chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Loro Piana and Berluti brand CEO Antonie Arnault commented on the basis of the long campaign of model abuse accused by model James: "if you hear something similar happen to the brand of the group, please contact me directly."

The wife's supermodel Natalia Vodianova also reminded the Berluti official's official account on Instagram to pay attention to such incidents.

What it means is that, just 3 months after the incident, Louis Vuitton, the core brand of LVMH, was attacked for similar problems.

The 20 year old Danish model, Ulrikke H yer, has published a long article on social media Facebook and Instagram. "LV thinks I'm too fat" has attracted many netizens' sympathy and support. Ulrikke H yer revealed in the text that the selection director Ashley Brokaw of this great show felt that she was slightly swollen and asked her to drink only 24 hours before the show. Finally, she did what she wanted, but she still kicked her out of the show.

Ashley Brokaw rebutted that her team did not ask the model to "just drink water, not to eat", but asked them to drink water only when they filled their stomach, as other drinks such as coffee and soda would increase the influence of jet lag after a long flight, thus affecting the state of the show.

Ashley Brokaw also stressed that its agent Alexia Cheval in Japan has contacted the brokerage firm of Ulrikke H yer for the first time by e-mail, explaining that when Ulrikke H yer arrived in Tokyo for the last fitting test before the show, it had been unable to wear the clothes that she tried on in Paris two weeks ago, and her face was swollen. But in Japan, Louis did not have a tailor to adjust the costume temporarily, so it could only be changed.

In addition, Alexia Cheval has apologized to Ulrikke H yer and paid the full salary.

For Ashley Brokaw's response, Ulrikke H H yer said helplessly that the behavior of unfair treatment due to weight is common in the model industry, but few people will disclose the dark side. "This industry is like this. When you try to wear clothes that do not wear the designated clothes, it will only be your problem, not the problem of clothing, but when a skinny model even does not fit the 0 yards of clothing, the brand and designer will redesign and make a set of them, which is terrible."

Another young model, Pandora Sykes, wrote in the postscript of Ulrikke H yer yer: "such a fact is disappointing. Thank you and Jame Scully for being brave enough to expose the darkness of the model industry and stand up."

Data show that about 600 thousand young people in France are considered to be eating disorders, and 40 thousand of them are anorexic.

In order to prevent the above phenomenon from deteriorating, France issued a decree in 2017, requiring all employees in France to provide physical quality index BMI health certificate, which is usually divided into height (m) square by weight (kg), and between 18.5 and 25 is health, less than 18 is too light, and less than 17 is regarded as malnutrition.

In addition, France should also request all models of pictures that appear in magazines, networks, posters and catalogues for commercial purposes since October 1, 2017. After the software has been processed in the form of software, no matter the effect is more slender or plump, it is necessary to attach the words "modified by picture". Violators will face a fine of 37 thousand and 500 euros or 280 thousand yuan.

Germany also launched a policy last year aimed at combating all kinds of commercial advertisements that used thin models.

It is reported that German President Merkel said that in the next ruling plan to focus on solving specific health risks, measures are being taken to curb the growing anorexia problem among young women groups, especially for advertising campaigns that are unrealistic beauty standards.

Meanwhile, the darker side of the model industry is constantly exposed.

At the beginning of last year, the Boston globe daily investigation group said that a series of photos and photos of a series of photographers and stylists who had sexual harassment of models were taken by model brokers. More than 50 models told the investigation team about a series of touching and attacking sexual experiences from inside and outside the workplace.

In order to better safeguard the safety and interests of the models, LVMH and Kai Yun group jointly launched the digital platform WeCareForModels last year.

The website will provide a balanced diet, body care and sports rest for the model from a professional point of view. It includes comments from DIOR creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, Gucci (special reading) CEO Marco Bizzarri and British designer Stella McCartney.

In May of the same year, Model Alliance, headquartered in New York and devoted to maintaining the rights of fashion models and other workers, announced the launching of the "respect" plan Respect Program, which wrote in an open letter issued by the official website. "The rights of models should be respected while working and the executives and the executives have great responsibilities. However, they often treat sexual assault as a public relations need instead of treating human rights violations as a need to be corrected. The plan quickly gained public support from over 100 professional models such as Karen Elson, Nathalia Novaes and Milla Jovovich.

According to survey data, driven by the trend and consumer awareness and aesthetic promotion, it is becoming a new consensus in the industry that the thin models are no longer enabled. From the 2017 autumn and winter fashion week, the proportion of large models and ethnic minority models has been on the rise. In the industry, more relevant model selection companies have also appeared. The trend of the T model and the Vetements model has brought the diversity of models to the T platform. The American light luxury brand Michael Kors is also doing its best. Every fashion show will invite the big model.

At the same time, Rihanna launched last year's underwear brand Savage x Fenty also began to launch large code models in advertising to reflect the importance of diversity. H&M joined ASOS, Boohoo and Missguided camps, no longer for female models, no matter whether the body's fat, fat lines, spots, or hair, will retain the most original appearance.

However, Sara Ziff, founder of Model Alliance, still believes that although the latest announcement of Kai Yun group marks another step in the industry's attention to modeling, there is still a lack of a practical "execution mechanism". The reform of the model industry should not be confined to words only. "What we really need is the industry standard that can be implemented."

From resisting sexual harassment to abandoning fur and protecting model rights, the fashion world seems to be developing in an increasingly "moral" direction.

But the industry is also facing tough challenges if it wants to get rid of its "notoriety" notoriety.