Yang Jun Talks About Costume Design, When Philosophy Meets Aesthetics.
Yang Jun, the first generation of Chinese clothing
Designer
Outstanding representatives.
In 1989, he joined the Karl Lagerfeld and joined the Armani design team in 1991 and became one of the few Chinese designers. In 1996, he was invited to visit Buckingham Palace in England and received a personal interview with Queen Elizabeth. In 2002, her design "Dragon Robe" was permanently collected by the French Le Louvre Museum. In 2008, she was invited to be the fashion director of the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games.
Yang Jun said with a smile that she was from the 60s of last century. She liked philosophy and was full of heart. She used to see the world from a multidimensional perspective.
Regard life as a part
Philosophy
Books are willing to spend a lot of time chewing, which has become the unique spiritual core of the designers born in 60s.
We can easily see that Yang Jun's heart is full of unusually pure ideals, with the heavy feeling left over by the times.
Because of this sense of gravity, she often can not help speaking of words such as "my motherland", saying that she is a "mission" that the first generation of designers should practice. In addition, she also has a paranoid love for indulging in thinking. She says she likes to melt into the sky, and likes to spend a whole day with mineral water and dry bread to the museum. She likes to overlook Daly's surrealism.
For a responsibility, always ready to go through fire and water; in order to find the so-called primitive, it can take a long time to ponder, perhaps the Chinese costume people in this era are far away from the most lovely expression of impetuous and self-cultivation.
Today, Yang Jun has successfully completed the important mission of the director of clothing at the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympic Games with infinite satisfaction.
Merits and demerits are left to the commentary of the onlookers. She is just trying to pay, and no commentary can confuse her heart.
She also told us that at this moment, she enjoyed the moments of empty mind and precipitating thoughts. She spent all her life thinking about where the original design was, and gradually discovered a very simple truth and shared it with us. - originally, design is the blending of philosophy and aesthetics. It is dialectical and inclusive, and it is also irresistible. Its magic lies in its unique language, but it can make people all over the world understand its beauty.
We can not help feeling her simplicity and pparency.
A philosopher who is not practicing well is often worried and disturbed, but a clever woman can design her life satisfactorily. In the world of design, philosophy and aesthetics are the best partners, but no one will win the competition. Only in this way can her design be detached, but not obscure, beautiful, but not misty.
"I want to be a soul."
Designer
"The Chinese lineage in Armani studio.
Yang Jun liked astronomy and geography from an early age.
The unknown joy of the vast sky always makes her feel enchanted. For this simple reason, the girl, who has a beautiful appearance and even a little "charming" force, is irrevocably fond of science.
It is just a natural preference for science. This boy who has a boy's name has never thought about what "Literature" or "art" should be, because the word "Engineering" in textile engineering has read the "Textile Engineering Department" by mistake.
Now it seems that this wonderful choice has gradually opened up the talent of Yang Jun's heart, and let her gradually discover her close relationship with the process design.
She was happy not to be fascinated by the simple appearance of a dress, but to concentrate on the craft, the fabric design and the production process, from a thread to a yarn, and then to a dress that could be priced for sale.
After graduation, she was assigned to a textile import and export company in Shanghai.
Fabric
Design has also become the first generation of fabric designers in China.
"The only confidence is their familiarity with technology.
But I always feel that I should have a deeper search. "
At the age of 20, Yang Jun, who was born with ambition and mission in that era, was born in the earliest field of fabric design in China. Technology and technology are no longer an obstacle to her approaching the true meaning of design. Yang Jun began to wonder how to find a designer.
soul
"
The exploration of this problem is bound to make Yang Jun unusual.
Like all the "literary youth" who have just opened the door to art, she began to love art, philosophy and obsessed with fields that seemed to have no boundaries with design. She found that those obscure descriptions in philosophical books were actually the essence and patience of human beings. Until these perspectives were opened, she discovered another curious person. She gradually discovered that an excellent designer needs to master the craft, and what she needs is the ability to think independently.
Those unsolicited inspiration scattered in the broad and profound humanities, like many stars, bow to the head.
This "insight" let
Yang Jun
Excited, in the late 80s of last century, Yang Jun decided to go abroad for further study. She applied for the Paris Academy of art. She believed that it could help her become a real "soul" designer.
Yang Jun was extremely lucky. After six months of preparatory study, she was faced with the temptation of many fields of design in the field of art, architecture and costume. Her mentor discovered her talent and judgement in fashion design at the first time, and laid a solid foundation for studying Textile Engineering in China. In half a year, she was almost obsessed with art research. Yang Jun already had the potential to become a fashion designer.
In this way, the tutor strongly recommended her to choose costume design as her professional field. This time, lucky goddess showed her unique appreciation for this talented girl.
Yang Jun accidentally encountered the most important mentor in her life - he is Karl Lagerfeld, the design director of international fashion master, Chanel (Chanel).
"You have to do something that belongs to you."
Lagerfeld
Said to the girl who came to search for "soul" at Paris art college.
Yang Jun began to eagerly learn the essence of western dress design, and Lagerfeld's motto always points to her. "What can be attributed to Yang Jun himself?"
With the solution to this proposition, after graduation, Yang Jun entered Armani.
Armani
As a designer, at this stage, her design skills made her the youngest designer of Asian origin in Armani design studio.
Yang Jun, who has been growing up, has gradually realized how to do things that belong to her. She has found that to achieve a wonderful inspiration, she must rely on the ability to "learn from others" in the field of technology. She knows not only the fabric making process, but also the artistic accomplishment of fashion design. This "from inside to outside" solid foundation is enough to make every piece of work able to withstand scrutiny, and also to make her design ideas easily and accurately realized and expressed.
And this is an irreplaceable advantage.
"It will be fine for me to reload a sewing machine for a few months."
Young and confident Yang Jun began to release her energy in the field of design and development.
The silk cotton printing and dyeing that she invented changed the printing and dyeing process in the traditional process, but printed and dyed in the fiber stage.
During her several years of working in Armani, she has not only taken part in the design work of men's wear, but also maintained good cooperation with many first-line brands such as Versace, GUCCI and so on. In 1992, Yang Jun successfully became the signing designer of the European fashion Union.
The latest frontier of fashion has finally faded away from their mysterious veil and is being presented in front of Yang Jun.
What is admirable is that, as early as 20 years ago, the young Chinese girl had not only witnessed the forward track of international fashion, but also unknowingly became a fashion designer.
"Integrating philosophy into philosophy
Art design
"Looking for the design origin of Beijing Olympic Games
"I will always talk to my colleagues around the world that my special experience in fabric design is learned in China," he said. "China has taught me how to start from the simplest fiber and turn it into a beautiful dress."
Yang Junsi did not hide her love for her motherland. The first generation of designers from China after 60s had deep love for her motherland wherever she went.
It is precisely because of a simple "love" that Yang Jun began to pay close attention to the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games a few years ago.
In 2004 Athens Olympic Games, as a member of the French expert group, Yang Jun came to Athens. What she did not know was that Zhang Yimou also quietly came to Athens to learn the Scriptures.
Since then, accidental encounter and deliberate agreement seem to have become frequent because of a common topic, "Beijing Olympic Games".
Having the responsibility and mission of designing the "100 years Olympic Games", Yang Jun, who has always seen any event "lightly", has joined the opening and closing ceremonies of the Beijing Olympic Games for the first time.
Clothing design
In the preparatory work.
"How I want to return to China a true face through the Olympic Games."
Such a grand ideal may be a little stylized and solemn for outsiders, but it is the most common wish for Yang Jun.
So far, Yang Jun has not changed her Chinese passport, even though it is so easy for her. Only those who truly love the nation can understand the glory and self-esteem of Chinese nationality written on the passport.
At the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympic Games in August 8, 2008, Yang Jun, her artistic director, and her partners finally did not go back on their word.
More than 1 hours of literary and artistic performances, from the four great inventions of ancient China to the Silk Road, from traditional Chinese operas to Taijiquan, lasted for 5000 years. The costumes also came from spring and autumn, Warring States, Qin, Western Han, Tang, song, yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Back to three thousand years ago, the clothes worn by people were called "deep clothes", and the upper and lower garments were linked together. The costumes were simple and the men and women were versatile.
In the field of movable type printing, the officials who read bamboo slips were dressed in Han Dynasty costumes. At this time, the costumes not only began to be complex, but also became gorgeous.
The silk embroidery in the Han Dynasty produced a great deal of output, and the textile technology reached a high level.
silk
Thousands of actors reproduced the famous Silk Road with gorgeous colors and beautiful costumes, and also reflected the prosperity of the clothing culture at that time.
"Hua Biao" shows the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Clothes & Accessories
The development of this period, both in clothing and clothing, presents an unprecedented and splendid spectacle.
Women's clothing began to focus on the unique charm of women.
The skirt is short and the sleeves are small, long skirts are tight, the skirt waist height is above the waist, tied by ribbons, giving people a beautiful slender feeling, wide necktie, revealing the upper chest, sexy and charming.
"The Olympics gave a designer too much to go beyond the design itself."
Yang and her friends are so excited that they can give full play to the Chinese culture by fully interpreting the Chinese culture through various historical, aesthetic and philosophical perspectives.
On the day when people could recall the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games, Yang Jun put and swam each garment in the backcourt, moved and moved until the last moment.
"Maybe he is really a perfectionist". Yang Jun smiles and mockery himself, but his eyes have obvious happiness.
In her view, this intensive Olympic opening ceremony is the perfect visual feast of philosophy and aesthetics.
"The change of color throughout the opening ceremony reveals the Chinese philosophy, constantly negating it in expression, and constantly affirming that you can see that gray, black and white are expressions of an ancient color language. Only 5000 years of Chinese culture and history, only this kind of high gray color philosophy, can reflect the heavy weight of this nation.
When the Republic is open, we will express the spirit of modern China with the saturated color system.
This is the sunshine of the Republic.
color
"
Yang Jun said.
"Throughout the opening ceremony, we used a lot of gradation. This is the symbol of China's soaring, the symbol of the process, everything is spiralling, this is our healthy expression of China's take-off."
Yang Jun added, "at the opening ceremony, there are not many golden systems of visual impact. We want to tell you that China has no threat, it is auspicious, we respect history, and we are willing to faithfully restore the color of this era."
What a consistent idea the team has is to interpret the passwords of ancient Chinese culture in the language of the world.
At this moment, Yang Jun's sensibility is like mercury and diarrhea.
"In the process, I have gained too many people's trust. When Beijing Olympic Organizing Committee Chairman Liu Qi told me," Chinese designers, stay. "
At that moment, I discovered that the value of life could be so publicized.
Yes, in the context of the Olympic Games, not only is the designer, but also the whole nation's life value has become loud and clear because of a responsibility.
Perhaps too many.
details
The beauty is left for us to dig, but we only need to remember the fact that Chinese design has succeeded in sublimating it, which is our common glory.
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